Temptation rules

Grade II

We are getting spoiled with the winter mountaineering. Another great day out, this time we headed for the Cairngorms. Arrived at the first snow gates at the bottom of Cairngorm around 10am, at the end of a congestion of cars waiting to drive on to the ski centre car park. We didn't like the idea of waiting for hours, and keen to do the Fiacaill ridge, ditched the cars and walked on. The first two hours or so were quite a slog, but once we got to the granite ridge, the 500ft ascend became increasingly exciting. There was again a fair bit of snow, cloud coverage not too low and although the sun didn't manage to come out, still a good day for doing this kind of thing. We came across another congestion, this time of people which is something I'm not too keen on when out in the hills, but managed to pass them. I think John and I missed out the best scramble by doing so, however did get a nice bit of scrambling done at the crest of the route.

After reaching the Cairngorm plateau, we decended down the Goat Track into Coire an t-Sneachda where we met Ryan and John. We walked out together and arrived back at the ski centre around 15h. We finished the day with a lovely hot chocolate and for some of us a bite to eat in Aviemore. Not a bad day at all :-).

Great Inventions

What a great weekend we had. My introduction to winter mountaineering has been a fantastic one and I am ready for more. We had big plans for saturday, and after some serious consideration of weather conditions, snow fall and avalanch risk (all over some venison sticks, a bottle of beer or a glass of wine), we came up with a plan A, B and C, all involving the ascent of Bidean nam Bian and hopefully also Stob Coire Sgreamhach, two peaks behind and joined to the Three Sisters of Glen Coe.

We started our walk crossing the River Coe at the foot of Coire and Lochan and followed the path up the corrie to its head.



There were a few groups of hill walkers about, all taking different routs. We decided against following some of them up not very safe looking gullies and opted for a more benign looking one situated roughly south east of Stob Coire nan Lochan. Crampons were put on and with ice-axe in hand a quick presentation and exercise on how to use both in any situation followed and soon we were working our way up. It was exciting stuff and the calfs were particularly tested on the steep slopes where we scrambled up on hands and feet. Lacid acid gallore! We reached the ridge east of Stob Coire nan Lochan safely and scrambled up to the top of the hill. Visibility was excellent and the views amazing. We had lunch while deciding if we would risk climbing the steep and narrow ridge past the level at the top of the Diamond Buttres to reach the summit of Bidean nam Bian (Pinnacle of the hills).



As there was already a couple of people going up the ridge, and another couple descending it, we decided to go for it too. The snow was mainly firm, with some powder snow in places, and felt at all times safe. We got up in good time and less efford than expected. Time and conditions were against up so we decided against climbing Stob Coire Sgreamhach (Peak of the dreadful corrie) and instead headed north-west to Stob Coire nam Beigh and An t-sron, where we came down a gully and followed the river to Achnam beithach and back to the car.



Saturday was less adventurous but still did a nice 5 hours walk up to Aonach Mor and Aonach Beag. I'm not a Munro-bagger, but it's still nice to tick them off. We didn't fancy the slog up Aonach Mor so took the cable car up... some would call that cheating, however considerin the knee deep snow we were glad we did! Again fabulous views far and wide, with an especially good view of Ben Nevis.

It's only a grade.... or is it?

The plan was to go to Aviemore but due to the bad weather forecast (snow and -7 degrees! brrrr....) and the bouldering competition being held there we decided to go to Inverness instead. I thought it would perhaps be quiet there but there was still a good crowd when we arrived. Luckily most of them left so there was plenty choice when it came to choosing routes.

Did a good few climbs on top rope and led three. It's going good :-)! The first two climbs were 6b. While the start went ok, I got a bit nervous coming near the the top where the wall was more overhanging and didn't feel brave enough to go for it risking coming off. Stupid really, this is where I should go for it. Neither did I want to hang about too long wasting energy, so continued on 'any hold' which was graded 6a. I really need to build up some stamina for this game. Maybe doing a kickboxing turn-up every day is not such a bad idea... It doesn't take long but it just doesn't happen outside the studio. One of these big ideas that never happen because there are simply more fun things to do, like eating chocolate...

But back to the action, I was well chuffed with the last climb in the right hand corner of the wall. I wasn't too keen on leading it because it looked tricky with the sloping wall next to it. But the more you think the less you do, so just had to get on with it. And I'm glad I did. It was another 6b and all went smooth until I struggled to reach the last hold. However after some guidance from Dave to bring the arm down in front of the body and then bringing it straight up in front (rather than out to the left of the body and up) which lengthens the body that extra inch, managed it fine and finished the climb. We drove home very happy again.

This weekend MMC weekend in Ballachulish. Not sure how much hill walking we'll be able to do. There has been a lot of snowfall over the last few days and as there already have been a few avalanches at Glencoe this winter, we won't be taking any risks. Whatever we end up doing, I'm sure it will be great, so watch this space!